Shows that it is possible to bottle a high-alcohol wine (16%, in this case) that’s still reasonably balanced. Blackberry, coffee and molasses notes are intense and tasty, while the mouthfeel is richly textured. Blackberry fruit powers through some chewy tannins on the finish, suggesting that a few years of aging isn’t out of the question. ——W.E.(9/1/2005)—— 88