Domaine Barmes-Buecher Riesling Herrenweg, Alsace, France

巴爾梅布徹赫輪連維雷司令干白葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：4334

目前該機構(gòu)尚無對此酒款的品評記錄。

While a hint of fungus did not mar the rather lean, bright Barmes-Buecher 2008 Riesling Tradition, the whiff of sauteed mushrooms on the nose of their 2008 Riesling Herrenweg de Turckheim is positively flattering, and manages to marry harmoniously with ripe pear, peach, lime and grapefruit. With a palpable sense of extract, and subtly satiny feel, this remains bright all the way through its predominantly citric, chalk and fruit pit-tinged finish. Plan to enjoy it over the next 5-7 years. As Francois Barmes was in the U.S. presenting his wines all the time that I was in Alsace last November, I tasted with his wife Genevieve and (for the first time in serious conversation with) his son Maxime, who clearly has the sharp wits and experimental spirit to harness his youthful enthusiasm. (I did not, however, ask him to play devil’s advocate in the case for biodynamics, which is by now a well-established practice at this address! For more on Barmes’ methodology, consult my report in issue 188.) Most of the 2009 Rieslings were almost shockingly low in acidity, but whether or not and if so to what degree they were thereby handicapped varied depending on the individual cuvee. Overall, Barmes’ approach to this vintage seems to have been to avoid problems from rapidly-ascending sugar and low acidity by picking relatively early, even if at the price of capturing only modestly ripe flavors. The array of 2009s I have reviewed is somewhat abbreviated, first on account of decisions the domaine made to conflate or omit the bottling of certain cuvees; secondly because a couple of Pinot Gris were still fermenting when I visited last November; and thirdly since from among a trio of whites still in tank awaiting sulfuring and bottling – testimony to the anomalously and inexplicably slow evolution of 2009s at this address – only one was in condition amenable to assessment. The 2008 collection is, thankfully, much more typically excellent.Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also, a Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

Barmes’ 2007 Riesling Herrenweg de Turckheim is redolent of – and bursting with – pear, kiwi, and linden. Tinged with brown spices, its luscious fruit is backed by vivacious acids (despite its having undergone malolactic conversion) and is loaned invigoration by the tactile pungency of citrus rind and tart chew of fruit skin. This represents good value, and should be worth following for at least 6-8 years. There is as usual a lot of fascinating wine in Francois Barmes’ constantly shifting, hugely diverse as well as just plain huge 2007 collection, though the level of success was on the whole consistent. As in the past, though, I remained relatively unconvinced by Barmes’ way with Pinot Gris, despite its being a grape that elsewhere revealed special potential in 2007. I can’t say 2006 here represents an advertisement for Barmes’ conscientious and long-standing biodynamic practices, but then, in a year of rampant rot, surely the absence of anti-botrytis sprays has to have been sorely felt at many biodynamic estates. There were a couple of 2006s here too fungal to recommend, with the majority of what was a reduced line-up meriting mild recommendation provided they are drunk-up soon.Importer: Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also, a Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29