Since there are only two barrels of the 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs Gain, the wine was still in wood on its lees, and as a result its framing of oak was a little more pronounced than most of the other cuvées in the cellar, with notes of smoke and wheat toast mingling with its bouquet of green apple, Anjou pear and Meyer lemon. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with bright acids and a succulent finish. Right now, it's deceptively open-knit, but I suspect it will tense up after a second winter on the lees and render this note somewhat conservative.