Domaine Cady Coteaux du Layon St Aubin Chaume

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Cady’s 2009 Coteaux du Layon Chaume – tasted from tank – points toward the likely superiority of chalk-clay soils over schist in not allowing the fruit to desiccate or vines to shut-down. Hints of chalk and salt pleasantly compliment this wine’s quince preserves and baked apple, and while it is extremely sweet and quite viscous, a sense of levity and some refreshment follow into the finish. This has the potential for elegant satisfaction over the next 5-7 years. I was sligthtly disappointed with Philippe Cady’s collection of 2009s – tasted from tank – and unfortunately could not take the time to taste his finished 2008s. But while neither truly noble rot nor good balance came easily on the Coteaux du Layon in 2009, Cady’s Chenins remain on the whole outstanding values in genuinely nobly sweet wine.A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29