Domaine Dirler-Cade Gewurztraminer, Alsace, France

凱德酒莊瓊瑤漿半干白葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：2774

The Dirler-Cade 2009 Gewurztraminer Bux offers high-toned herbal and floral notes, with a sort of greenhouse-like inner mouth perfume persisting all the way through its off-dry finish. Brown spices and a hint of caramel overlay a faintly green aspect for an effect resembling pickled, spiced melon rind. Overall, this is relaxed but juicy, pleasantly pungent, and manages to avoid any heat. (This year’s celery-scented generic Dirler-Cade Gewurztraminer bottling revealed the split personality that could arise in 2009s harvested early, yet still alcoholically voluminous and warm.) As usual chez Dirler, I was forced during my most recent visit to take a slightly abbreviated tour of the two most recent collections on account of this family’s sheer multitude of bottlings, but it is clear from their 2008s that this remains one of the most frequently exciting – and generally consistent – sources of wine in Alsace, making it unfortunate that one doesn’t see Dirler-Cade wines more often in the U.S. Moreover, this is an estate that’s rendering highly distinctive; often deliciously unorthodox; but never fashion-pandering innovations while retaining a clear and constant vision of how the classic cepages of Alsace should perform in sites that can boast some of the longest – not to mention most-deserved – reputations of any in their region. All this having been noted, 2009 was a challenge even here: sometimes well-met, but seldom entirely surmounted. Rieslings were being harvested as early as mid-September, and Jean Dirler observes that had he cut back the crop on his Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer rather than allowing bunches to remain abundant, he would really have had a problem with sky-high potential alcohol. (For more on the Dirlers’ sites and methods, consult my reports on earlier vintages.)Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185

A generic Dirler-Cade 2008 Gewurztraminer is scented with celery seed, rose petal, and bacon fat, all of which go on to inform a palate glossy yet refreshing, suffused with an enlivening salinity that carries into a persistent finish, this ought to serve well for 6-8 years. As usual chez Dirler, I was forced during my most recent visit to take a slightly abbreviated tour of the two most recent collections on account of this family’s sheer multitude of bottlings, but it is clear from their 2008s that this remains one of the most frequently exciting – and generally consistent – sources of wine in Alsace, making it unfortunate that one doesn’t see Dirler-Cade wines more often in the U.S. Moreover, this is an estate that’s rendering highly distinctive; often deliciously unorthodox; but never fashion-pandering innovations while retaining a clear and constant vision of how the classic cepages of Alsace should perform in sites that can boast some of the longest – not to mention most-deserved – reputations of any in their region. All this having been noted, 2009 was a challenge even here: sometimes well-met, but seldom entirely surmounted. Rieslings were being harvested as early as mid-September, and Jean Dirler observes that had he cut back the crop on his Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer rather than allowing bunches to remain abundant, he would really have had a problem with sky-high potential alcohol. (For more on the Dirlers’ sites and methods, consult my reports on earlier vintages.)Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185

Dirler-Cade's 2007 Gewurztraminer Bux delivers a fascinating, pungent nose of rose petal, chervil, celery root, white pepper, and clove. Glossy in texture and expansive, it saturates the palate with alkaline minerality and persistently invigorating spice and pepper to which the wine's hint of sweetness and hint of finishing caramel offer a lovely foil. Plan to enjoy this over the next 7-10 years. Jean-Pierre Dirler was another of those growers to express delight at the 2007 vintage with its wide window of harvest opportunities, but to have sold off or declassified much of his family's production in 2006. It bears repeating that this estate's international profile is not nearly as high as is the quality of wine that have issued from it routinely since at least the mid-1980s, when I first visited here. I did not, unfortunately, have chance to taste quite the entire 2007 Dirler-Cade collection, and canvassed only a small selection of their in any event diminished number of 2006s.Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185

目前該機構(gòu)尚無對此酒款的品評記錄。