The Dirler-Cade 2007 Gewurztraminer Spiegel Selection de Grains Nobles smells of quince, peach, rose petal, and a hint of celery seed; saturates the palate with hazelnut and vanilla cream, nougat, marzipan, candied citrus rind, and liquid rose perfume; and finishes with confectionary but buoyant and soothing length. This complex dessert-of-a-Gewurztraminer should be worth following for at least a quarter century. Jean-Pierre Dirler was another of those growers to express delight at the 2007 vintage with its wide window of harvest opportunities, but to have sold off or declassified much of his family's production in 2006. It bears repeating that this estate's international profile is not nearly as high as is the quality of wine that have issued from it routinely since at least the mid-1980s, when I first visited here. I did not, unfortunately, have chance to taste quite the entire 2007 Dirler-Cade collection, and canvassed only a small selection of their in any event diminished number of 2006s.Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185
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