The Dirler 2007 Riesling Kitterle displays oily, crushed stone, and flint-like notes reminiscent of Chablis or Pouilly-Fume, together with fennel and peony. Ripe white peach fruit on the palate is suffused with mineral notes of alkaline and crushed stone along with lemon oil, honey, and cooling herbal essences. This derives energy from its high acidity but less overt brightness than exhibited by the Saering. It should be worth following for 15 or more years. Jean-Pierre Dirler was another of those growers to express delight at the 2007 vintage with its wide window of harvest opportunities, but to have sold off or declassified much of his family's production in 2006. It bears repeating that this estate's international profile is not nearly as high as is the quality of wine that have issued from it routinely since at least the mid-1980s, when I first visited here. I did not, unfortunately, have chance to taste quite the entire 2007 Dirler-Cade collection, and canvassed only a small selection of their in any event diminished number of 2006s.Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 757-8185
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