The 1994 Cotes du Rhone Rasteau Cuvee Prestige would have merited an outstanding score except for the slightly astringent tannin. Made in an Henri Bonneau-like style, this huge, rich, opaquely-colored Rasteau exhibits tons of fruit, glycerin, alcohol, and tannin. It appears to have been injected with a few steroids to make it even fuller. Give it 1-2 years of cellaring and drink it over the subsequent 10-15. Domaine du Trapadis, run by Helen Durand, is one of Rasteau's emerging stars. These are not shy wines, as they represent the full throttle, rustic, super-concentrated essence of old vines, and the wind and sun-drenched terroir of this part of the southern Rhone Valley. These wines may veer slightly in the direction of being too full-blown and tannic. Yet with a few minor winemaking refinements, this exciting estate could emerge as one of the top names in the southern Rhone.
Jeroboam Wines, New York, NY; tel. (212) 374-9415; fax (212) 925-6474