Gerard Raphet Les Combottes, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, France

哈貝酒莊科姆波特園紅葡萄酒

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The Raphet 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Combottes smells of sandalwood and lightly-cooked cherry; displays generous fruit with salt-tinged, marrow-like meatiness and hints of caramelized parsnip and blond tobacco on a slightly gritty palate; and finishes long but with a hit of heat and some lip-numbing, characteristics I suspect reflect in part this wine's relative lack of buffering density. I would plan to drink it over the next several years. Gerard Raphet's 2008s finished malo by the end of the following January, which is amazingly early for this vintage, and not necessarily advantageous. (He suspects the environment of his new facility has something to do with that rapidity.) He bottled them last January. As a group these wines are not particularly dark or youthful in color, nor do they for the most part exhibit the sort of brightness that I associate with their vintage. That said, they are generous and charming, often with attractively-integrated hints of caramelization. Yields were way down in both 2007 and 2008, notes Raphet, though one can hardly attribute any special degree of vinous concentration to this fact. In common with me, Raphet finds his 2007s - which to my surprise held their own vis-a-vis 2008 - ideal for drinking young.Peter Vezan Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93

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Musk oil, wood smoke, fresh cherry, and roasted red meats dominate in the nose of Raphet's 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Combottes. The tartness of fresh cherry takes the lead on the palate, and when paired with the wine's smokiness and a salted beef stock aspect, makes for an invigorating finish. There is not much substantiality here, but the tannins are admirably refined. The Raphet wines have always been marked by a wide divergence of quality and a reflection of conditions very much as nature presented them. The results in 2006 are relatively lightweight, with for the most part only bottlings from the characteristically top sites and vines of the domaine really asserting strong personalities (and a presumably hail-tainted and rather 1983-like village Gevrey being less than recommendable). Gerard Raphet says he picked consciously on the early side, and then quickly, boosting the alcohol levels on most wines slightly from their potentials in the low 12s. (For further information about Raphet and his sites, readers are urged to consult my report in issue 171.) Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93