Domaine Raymond Usseglio & Fils Cuvee La Part des Anges Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone, France

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唯一打動(dòng)我的一款酒是略顯奇特的 Chateauneuf du Pape La Parte des Anges，該酒由 70% 在桶中熟成的 Mourvedre、20% 的 Grenache 和 10% 的 Syrah 調(diào)配而成。此酒給我的感覺像是一款年輕的 Bordeaux 酒，而不是一款 Chateauneuf du Pape。2009 和 2010 年份的該酒都給人留下十分深刻的印象，帶有藍(lán)色/黑色水果、熏橡木桶、石墨、甘草和些許 Mourvedre 品種的果味。2009 年份的單寧如果不完全溶解，會(huì)顯得十分惱人。2010 年份的該酒雖然不是該產(chǎn)區(qū)的典型酒品，但該有的特性一應(yīng)俱全。如果再熟成 8 至 10 年，我覺得所含的單寧將再也不會(huì)成為消費(fèi)者關(guān)注的焦點(diǎn)。（目前仍未上市）

The only wine that struck me as somewhat atypical is the Chateauneuf du Pape La Parte des Anges, a blend of 70% barrel-aged Mourvedre, 20% Grenache and 10% Syrah. It comes across more like a young Bordeaux than a young Chateauneuf du Pape. Impressively endowed in both 2009 and 2010 with lots of blue and black fruits, toasty oak, graphite, licorice and some of the blue fruit spectrum of Mourvedre. The 2009's tannins may be troublesome if they don’t completely resolve themselves. Everything is there in the 2010, even though it is atypical for the appellation. However, I don’t think the tannins will ever become an issue if consumers are willing to wait the requisite 8-10 years both of these wines need. This is a connoisseur’s effort from Chateauneuf du Pape. To reiterate, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape La Parte des Anges (70% Mourvedre, 20% Grenache and 10% Syrah) has sweeter tannin than the 2009, and may age longer, but both vintages require a decade of cellaring. They are serious, massive, concentrated wines meant for long-term cellaring. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

A new baby in the Raymond Usseglio portfolio is the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee des Anges, a blend of 60% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache, and 20% Syrah from parcels he has planted on limestone and sandy soils. This is a meaty, black fruit-dominated wine with some smoky earthy root vegetables intermixed with plenty of cassis, blackberry, plum, and even a hint of fig. It is a more modern-styled wine by the standards of Usseglio, and I wouldn’t be surprised if some new barriques were thrown in here, although I didn’t really smell any oak. I just had the sense that this is a different animal than the other wines, but that could just be the very high percentage of Mourvedre. In any event, this looks set for a long life, and should age nicely for 20-25+ years.This staunch traditionalist, who ages everything in old barrels for 16 to 18 months, has turned out absolutely sensational 2007s, and his 2006s are certainly among the strongest wines of the vintage.Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

I suspect there will be mixed reactions to the limited production 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape La Parte des Anges. A blend of 70% Mourvedre, 20% Grenache, and 10% Syrah aged 100% in small barrels (only a subtle hint of oak is present), this classic, pure wine displays plenty of texture, but it is firm and in need of additional bottle age. Fresh and full-bodied, it offers hints of mushrooms, tree bark, blueberries, and charcoal. This impressive, modern-styled wine still seems classic in the scheme of Chateauneuf du Pape. Give it 2-3 years of bottle age and drink it over the following two decades.The name -Usseglio- is well-known in Chateauneuf du Pape as the Usseglio family immigrated from Italy during the Great Depression. There are two top domaines named Usseglio, that of Raymond and Pierre Usseglio. The Raymond Usseglio estate is now being run by Stephane Usseglio, who has introduced a new Mourvedre-based cuvee called La Parte des Anges (reviewed here and called Reserve des Anges in last year's report). The 2008s are very good for the vintage, but the 2007s are the finest wines I have tasted at Raymond Usseglio since their 1998s, and these may even eclipse them.Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800