Domaine Rossignol-Trapet Vieilles Vignes, Gevrey-Chambertin, France

羅斯諾-特拉佩老藤紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：6721

The 2016 Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes comes from vines averaging over sixty years and this vintage includes two-thirds whole bunch fruit and 15% new oak. It has a perfumed bouquet, quite earthy...think of walking through a dewy, muddy woodland on an early spring morning. The palate is at least fresh on the entry with fine acidity, simple compared to previous vintage but with an agreeable, unimposing, dark cherry and raspberry finish that just misses a little aftertaste.

The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes, which includes 10% new oak like the Beaune les Teurons, has a straightforward bouquet with redcurrant and cranberry scents, withdrawn at first but opening with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip on the entry. Moderate weight in the mouth and with a light saline note towards the finish, this is a satisfying if slightly foursquare Gevrey-Chambertin.

The 2014 Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes includes 40% whole bunch fruit. It has a natural, refined and quite earthy bouquet with damp woodland scents lending the aromatics that "autumnal" touch. The palate is nicely balanced with supple tannin, brisk redcurrant and cranberry fruit with a slightly foursquare finish. Not bad, but more for early drinking I feel.

From 40- to 80-year-old vines, the 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes has an attractive marine influence on the nose that displays moderate intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, well-judged acidity and a harmonious if slightly simple finish. Effortless.

From several parcels of 40 to 80-year old vines, the 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes has a fragrant bouquet with scents of redcurrant jam and raspberry preserve. The palate is medium-bodied with a crisp raspberry and strawberry opening. The tannins seem quite firm, lending the finish a sense of structure and slight austerity, though clean and fresh. This is a little conservative, but very well crafted. I remember visiting Domaine Rossignol-Trapet on my very first foray into Burgundy in 1997 and having followed their wines closely ever since, it was good to return, albeit briefly, to taste through their 2012s. During that period, the biggest change has been David and Nicolas Rossignol’s conversion to biodynamics in 2004, a process that was being trialed during that first visit. They told me that they have fine-tuned their vinification in accordance, for example, using less pigeage than they once did, and this has resulted in a finer, more nuanced set of wines in recent years. Here, the harvest commenced on 27 September and finished on 4 October. Hail reduced their Beaune vineyards’ production by around 20% and their older vines suffered millerandage, though they found that the premier crus held up fine. I have always felt that their wines are a little under-rated by cognoscenti. While over the road, Denis Bachelet has perhaps unintentionally propagated a zealous, almost feverish following for his wines, Rossignol-Trapet perhaps has a more commercial bent and that used to be reflected in their good, but rarely great wines. Yet in the last three or vintages, so they have fine-tuned their style: ratcheted up a few levels towards, if not equal to that of Denis Bachelet and the village’s top tier of producers. Time to give these fine wines another look if you have not done so recently. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400 and through various UK merchants including Bibendum and Justerini & Brooks.