A nearly-pure Syrah from vines planted in 1972 - when there was not much acreage of that cepage in Roussillon - Treloar's 2007 Cotes du Roussillon Le Secret displays generously juicy, ripe, resin-tinged dark cherry and cassis, with a sense of tart fruit skin lending invigoration and notes of peat and crushed stone a bit of intrigue to its finish. I would plan on drinking this over the next 2-3 years. (The 2008 - much to my surprise given the nature of that vintage generally - proved to be a bit drying in contrast, seemingly less able to deal with the longer stay in newer barrels that this cuvee receives.) Like so many modern wine growers, English-born Jonathan Hesford - trained as a physicist - admits to having "just started out as a lover of wine" and then gotten carried-away. He and his wife Rachel Treloar left her native New Zealand in 2005 after acquiring a run-down old winery in Trouillas (not far south of Perpignan) with diverse parcels of various cepages. The attraction of Roussillon was - as it has been for so many "outsiders" - the availability of proven terroir and old vines at a reasonable price; and "what impressed me," says Hesford about the Les Aspres sector, "is that there's a lot of (water-retentive) clay in the soil, so you get a bit more freshness into the wine. For the kinds of wine I wanted to make, I thought this was more appropriate than, say, the Agly Valley." The kinds of wine Hesford makes are really quite diverse, not to mention evolving, and promising.There is at present no U.S. importer.
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