A 20,000-bottle release from a hot and dry vintage to the extreme, the Donnaolimpia 1898 2017 Bolgheri Superiore Millepassi is a wine that took me a little while to wrap my head around. Instead of the overt ripeness you might expect, the bouquet shows atypical tones of smoked teak wood or Asian spice, perhaps calling for some exotic flavors, such as a Punjabi curry. The bouquet does relax with time, slipping smoothly into fruity tones of blackberry and black currant with more spice, tar and smoke. There is a lot of density and concentration in this blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Petit Verdot and 10% Merlot that is aged in oak for two years. The tannins are tight and astringent. I would wait a few more years to drink the Millepassi; however, I wouldn't earmark this bottle for especially long cellar aging either.