The Undhof 2010 Gruner Veltliner Lindberg Reserve displays sheer sap and clarity of flavor that harkens back to the Messwein, but with greater intensity; backed by greater extract and glycerin; and mingled with Urgestein-typical sense of pungent mineral impingement. Snap pea and fresh green bean are garlanded with lilac and tinged with pepper and crushed stone in a dynamically interactive, infectiously juicy finish. This ought to be worth following for the better part of a decade. Berthold Salomon suffered dramatic 2010 crop-losses with Riesling, but only a small diminution of Gruner Veltliner, “and for me,” he adds, “this is definitely a Gruner Veltliner year.” Between selective de-acidification of musts and allowing some lots to undergo malo-lactic transformation, the high acids of the vintage managed to be quite well-tamed at this address. (Details on some of this estate’s large acreage can be found scattered throughout my previous reports.)Various importers, including Fruit of the Vines Inc, Long Island City, NY; tel. (718) 392 5640, Artisan Growers & Producers, San Francisco CA; tel. (415) 264 4866, and Bommarito Wines, Saint Louis, MI; tel. (314) 961 8996