This is one of the best California Rieslings around. Let’s start with acidity, which is crisp and steely. The flavors are exotic and racy, suggesting wildflowers, apples, and an oily, lighter-fluid element. It floats in the mouth because of the light texture, but is serious stuff, and will likely age well. Defines finesse and elegance. —S.H.——S.H.(5/1/2002)—— 90