Giuseppe Mascarello & Figlio Bricco Falletto Dolcetto d'Alba, Piedmont, Italy

朱塞佩·馬斯卡雷略酒莊布里科法萊托多姿桃紅葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：776

The 2008 Dolcetto d’Alba Bricco offers up dark fruit, wild herbs, ash and licorice in a somewhat burly, old-fashioned style typical of this house. Still, this shows quite a bit of density for the vintage. Ideally the Bricco is best opened well in advance to allow some of more rustic notes to blow off. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. Proprietor Mauro Mascarello makes some of the most compelling, traditional wines in Piedmont. Mascarello’s signature Barolo, Monprivato, rarely shows well when young, yet it has a proven ability to transform magically in the bottle, something I have witnessed first-hand with more vintages than I can remember. The irony is that by the time the wines start showing well they are long gone from the market or have appreciated dramatically in price. Importers: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

The 2007 Dolcetto d’Alba Bricco is a very pretty wine laced with perfumed red fruit. Most of the intensity is up front as the wine’s persistence drops of a bit on the mid-palate. The Bricco remains a very traditional style of Dolcetto, but in 2007 the sheer vibrancy of the fruit helps balance some of the more rustic elements that are present. This is a very beautiful vintage for the Bricco. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2013. Proprietor Mauro Mascarello has turned out two very pretty 2005 Barolos, but did not bottle his Villero as he waited until after the rains to pick the fruit and by that time the quality in the vineyard had been compromised. There is also no Ca d’Morissio in 2005, as that juice was blended into the Monprivato. Although Mascarello is best known for his Barolos, his entry-level wines also merit serious consideration. Although Mascarello’s Barberas aren’t as well-priced as they once were, they are capable of delivering tons of class and elegance. Readers who want to learn more about this iconic Barolo estate may want to check out my recent article on www.erobertparker.com. Importers: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

The 2006 Dolcetto d’Alba Bricco is a rustic, old style wine loaded with ripe dark fruit supported by sturdy tannins. The wine shows some awkward herbal notes at the outset that slightly fade with aeration. As gorgeous as the fruit is here, this is a style that is likely to appeal most to lovers of traditionally made wines. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2012. Mauro Mascarello is one of the most fascinating personalities in Piedmont. He is also arguably the longest-tenured active winemaker in the Langhe, having been directly responsible for all aspects of production at his family’s estate since 1970, which makes him an invaluable resource on the traditions of the region. Today’s younger generation of high-end producers speak with great reverence about Mascarello and even more so about his father Gepin who was a legend in these parts. Mascarello was an internationally-renowned producer decades before today’s big names were even making wines under their own labels. Twenty years ago, Mascarello’s signature Barolo Monprivato was one of the most expensive Barolos on the market. Then the new-age style became dominant during the 1990s and the estate languished in perception, but not quality. In recent times Mascarello has enjoyed a resurgence in popularity which is long overdue. Prices have gone up, but the Barolo Monprivato in particular remains a steal relative to other world-class wines. Monprivato is one of the handful of Italian wines than can hold its own with the best being made anywhere in the world. Importer: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

The 2005 Dolcetto d’Alba Bricco presents herbal overtones, but reveals a dark color as well as richness in the fruit that provides a lovely counterpoint. Made in a powerful, rustic style, this full-bodied, structured Dolcetto is loaded with personality much of which comes from the older vines that are planted in these limestone-rich soils. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2010. Mauro Mascarello is one of the few producers who prefers his 2003 Barolos to his 2001s as he finds they have more power and intensity while also maintaining finesse and a sense of classicism. The wines certainly have more power, but I am not sure I would agree they have more finesse. In any event, his 2003 Barolos are among the best of the vintage, in particular the Santo Stefano di Perno and Monprivato. I also tasted the 2003 Ca’ d’ Morissio from barrel a few months ago, and it is shaping up to be a remarkably rich wine very much in keeping with the style of the vintage. Mascarello hasn’t decided when he will release the 2001 Ca’ d’ Morissio, but it, too, is promising, as is his entire range of 2004 Barolos. Importers: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

The 2003 Dolcetto d’Alba Bricco made from a piece of the Monprivato vineyard where the exposure veers from southwest to west, is a good introduction to the house style in its intensity, length, and concentration. The varietal notes are there, but this is anything but a fruit-driven, up-front type of Dolcetto and it will require a bit of time to come around. Importer: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404