The 2006 RESERVA BRANCO was raised in French and Hungarian oak, and is strongly marked by it on opening. It is rather elegantly scaled in the mid-palate, but there is some welcome acidity and liveliness in the background. With air, there is some welcome integration of the oak with the wine, and this becomes far more pleasing. It never becomes truly distinguished, but it does sneak up on you, showing a better finish than anticipated, and a certain mouth-coating quality. Drink now-2011. This winery near Beja includes a beautiful resort facility. It also features, more pertinently, Luis Duarte, the well regarded winemaker/consultant who also works with Quinta do Mouro and Malhadinha Nova. Although at most wineries the 2004s shine, here the 2005s seem to be the pick of the litter to me.Importers: Vinum Importing, Redmond, WA; tel. (206) 621-8843; Barterhouse, New York, N.Y.; tel. (917) 463-3076.
