Weingut Josef Jamek Ried Achleiten Gruner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：3434

Despite a soft, rather blurred impression (suggesting malo, though Altmann denies that it took place), Jamek’s disappointingly diffident 2010 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd from the Liebenberg was rather ungenerously stony, an impression that their also wet stone-underlain 2010 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Achleiten – generously endowed as it is with pear and apple fruit – escapes. Varietal typical notes of snap pea, mint, and site-typical whiffs of floral perfume enhance this wine with satisfying polish as well as ripeness- and an extract-endowed sense of sweetness. Hints of cress and spinach bitterness as well as nuttiness join in on a vibrantly juicy, interactive finish. This ought to be worth following for at least 7-9 years. Josef Jamek, apart from whose energy and insight the course of Austrian wine over the last quarter century can scarcely be imagined, died this March at the age of 92. I wish I could report with more consistent enthusiasm on recent vintages that son-in-law Hans Altmann, cellarmaster Volker Mader and their team have bottled, but results emerging from their impressive and relatively new cellar have been mixed, and disappointing relative to standards set here a decade and more ago (as further notes I’ll publish soon on wines of vintages 2008 and 2009 will more completely demonstrate). The biggest challenge in recent years seems to have been botrytis and at Smaragd level high alcohol and bitterness that too often attend it. That said, in 2010 one sometimes tastes the not quite successful struggle to get really ripe flavors. Altmann was among the few growers kind enough to show me complete analyses of malic and tartaric acid. They were sometimes near parity, but usually the former dominated. With regard to ameliorating total acidity, he pointed only to “massive tartrate precipitation” which he encouraged, but which of course could only reduce the level of tartaric.Importer: Carlo Huber Selections, Salisbury, CT (917) 742-0601

Rich and well-proportioned, with flavors of grapefruit, peach and green apple, accented by touches of lemon curd. The finish really hums with vibrant spice and subtle smoky notes. Drink now through 2015. 383 cases made.??–KM??Region: Austria / Nieder?sterreich / Wachau Select to Add

The 2007 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Achleiten displays a depth and savory richness that goes well beyond the other Veltliner bottlings in this year’s Jamek collection. Grapefruit, mirabelle, apricot and lime in the nose put me in mind of Riesling. Creamy in texture and imposingly rich on the palate, this mingles its pit fruits and citrus with nut oils, white pepper, salt, and crushed stone. There is a mysteriously carnal, slightly Chablis-like note lurking at the periphery as well. This will reward at least 6-8 years of pensive consideration and employment at table. After witnessing as a customer first hand last year the virtual absence of any remaining wine under 13% alcohol in the wonderful Jamek restaurant (and that was only in late June), it was a relief to know that 2007 provided a goodly supply. That said, as is often the case at this address – and this year even at Federspiel level – botrytis was a frequent and at times less than felicitous influence.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300