Weingut Josef Jamek Ried Kollmitz Gruner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau, Austria

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The 2007 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Kollmitz introduces a newly acquired site at Jamek. Fresh plum and a smoky overlay and horseradish-like nip of botrytis in the nose set the stage for an oily-textured, full-bodied Veltliner with the pungency of the variety reinforced (or, depending on one’s viewpoint, exaggerated or distorted) by the nip of botrytis. Lemon zest and plum pit further inform the impressive cling of this audacious, rather unrefined, and inevitably controversial wine. I find it dramatic and not over-limit, but I would plan to enjoy it with appropriately intense cuisine, and within the next couple of years.After witnessing as a customer first hand last year the virtual absence of any remaining wine under 13% alcohol in the wonderful Jamek restaurant (and that was only in late June), it was a relief to know that 2007 provided a goodly supply. That said, as is often the case at this address – and this year even at Federspiel level – botrytis was a frequent and at times less than felicitous influence.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300