Josef Jamek Gruner Veltliner Achleiten

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The 2006 Gruner Veltliner Achleiten is the wine that would have been Achleiten Federspiel, except that at the point where Hans Altmann felt confident in picking it, the finished alcohol exceeded the 12.5% limit for the category Federspiel. But by any name, this is a satisfying reflection of the site in a highly versatile style. Lentil and green bean in the nose lead to a juicy, refined palate in which those ripe, satisfying vegetable suggestions are tinged with wet stone minerality. When I tried this out a week later at the table it showed-off its versatility. When I tasted at Jamek in June, three of their five Federspiel bottlings were already “drunk up” on the restaurant list, and there was no Steinfeder. What, I wondered, are the poor guests going to drink here in the heat of midsummer? It certainly was not going to have less than 13% alcohol. Ironically, few of the 2006s here were particularly ripe in flavors. Thankfully, though, there were no difficulties with botrytis at this address of the sort encountered in 2005.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300