Weingut Josef Jamek 'Stein Am Rain' Gruner Veltliner Federspiel, Wachau, Austria

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The Jamek 2010 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Stein am Rain offers a surprisingly plush though only moderately ripe set of flavors, but its cool herb, cress, stalk celery, and cucumber melange has an appeal of its own, and hints of salinity and bitterness add counterpoint to its juicy finish. I would plan on enjoying this over the next year or two (and at least at the winery and eponymous, glorious restaurant Jamek, no Federspiel this decade seems to have survived on the list for even six months, the short crop guaranteeing that this would again be so even in relatively under-ripe 2010). Josef Jamek, apart from whose energy and insight the course of Austrian wine over the last quarter century can scarcely be imagined, died this March at the age of 92. I wish I could report with more consistent enthusiasm on recent vintages that son-in-law Hans Altmann, cellarmaster Volker Mader and their team have bottled, but results emerging from their impressive and relatively new cellar have been mixed, and disappointing relative to standards set here a decade and more ago (as further notes I’ll publish soon on wines of vintages 2008 and 2009 will more completely demonstrate). The biggest challenge in recent years seems to have been botrytis and at Smaragd level high alcohol and bitterness that too often attend it. That said, in 2010 one sometimes tastes the not quite successful struggle to get really ripe flavors. Altmann was among the few growers kind enough to show me complete analyses of malic and tartaric acid. They were sometimes near parity, but usually the former dominated. With regard to ameliorating total acidity, he pointed only to “massive tartrate precipitation” which he encouraged, but which of course could only reduce the level of tartaric.Importer: Carlo Huber Selections, Salisbury, CT (917) 742-0601

This wine manages to balance freshness with rich, concentrated fruit. It is certainly full-bodied, reveling in its ripe kiwi and pear flavors. But it also shows crispness, light acidity and a lively aftertaste.——R.V.(5/1/2008)—— 88

This wine was recommended, but no tasting note was given.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300