While last year’s “l(fā)ighter” rendition of Achleiten Gruner Veltliner was already above Federspiel weight, Jamek’s 2007 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Achleiten, while glossy in texture and extract-rich, is reasonably true to type. Grapefruit, cress, and fennel inform a sappy, penetrating palate that leaves behind invigoratingly peppery and saline as well as crystalline mineral traces. This should perform admirably at table for at least 5-6 years. After witnessing as a customer first hand last year the virtual absence of any remaining wine under 13% alcohol in the wonderful Jamek restaurant (and that was only in late June), it was a relief to know that 2007 provided a goodly supply. That said, as is often the case at this address – and this year even at Federspiel level – botrytis was a frequent and at times less than felicitous influence.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300