Weingut Leo Alzinger Gruner Veltliner Reserve, Wachau, Austria

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Bringing together high must weight and botrytized fruit from numerous parcels that would not have lent themselves to Smaragd, the Alzingers bottled a 2005 Gruner Veltliner Reserve. This could have been labeled as Auslese but, opines Alzinger junior, this is not a designation that sells inside Austria, “and I like to think of it as just a bit better than Auslese.” We are evidently dealing with clean, essentially noble botrytis judging by the wine’s imposingly honeyed richness and freedom from bitterness. Spiced peach preserves, honey and coffee saturate the palate. Dense and opulent though it is, this Veltliner does not lack an invigorating saltiness and underlying element of wet stone. The finish is a bit covered by sweetness, but may come into more focus with time. Certainly this will be fascinating to follow. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300