Blond tobacco, rhubarb, green bean, and melon inform the Alzinger 2007 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Muhlpoint, along with a heady perfume of lilac. This admirably exhibits the combination of density and flavor depth combined with luscious fruit, refreshment and invigorating pungency that are 2007 at its best. It finishes strongly – but not in an alcoholic sense – with added notes of coffee, lime zest, and white pepper. This should cellar well for at least 6-8 years. Leo Alzinger senior’s lucid account of the 2007 vintage can be found in the general introduction to this report. After the extraordinary collection that he and his son, Leo, fielded from 2006, its successor – while different in personality – did not disappoint one bit. (I don’t know whether this was punishment for past sins, but I am sorry to have to report that your correspondent was not offered an opportunity to taste Riesling Smaragd bottlings from Liebenberg and Hohereck.)Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300