Mantler's peony and blood orange-scented 2006 Gruner Veltliner Spiegel offers fullness (at 14% alcohol) and dark, deep richness of brown-spiced rhubarb, black currant, and gooseberry compote, malt, and tobacco. Glycerin-richness makes for a suggestion of sweetness, and sheer density and prominent phenolics for an almost red wine-like character. The finish here is something of a rolling block, leaving behind a trail of smoke, but it is impossible not to be impressed. This wine has an excellent track record in all sorts of vintages, and probably can be counted on for at least 8-10 years of fascinating evolution. Importer: A Bill Mayer Selection, The Age of Riesling, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 549-2444.