Mantlerhof Gruner Veltliner Mosburgerin

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The 2007 Gruner Veltliner Mosburgerin is now officially sub-titled “Veltlinerin,” as Mantler has registered that trademark. Here we have a juicy, luscious, melon-like fruit matrix subtly supported by six grams of residual sugar and accented by mint and flowers. Low-toned notes of coffee and stewed rhubarb compliment saline, sweetly savory suggestions of scallop in a fascinating finish. This promises huge enjoyment over at least the coming 2-3 years. Interestingly, this is one of several Mantler wines of the vintage that fermented spontaneously as opposed to having been yeasted. He plans in future not to permit his musts to settle so thoroughly, as a means to insure complete fermentation with ambient yeasts.It is always a fascinating fun to chat and taste with Josef Mantler, who generously opens ancient bottles from his remarkable reserves for many of his visitors, especially in order to point to the complex virtues and longevity of difficult vintages. I am not sure whether 2007 will go down in his annals as difficult, but he certainly scored numerous successes this year. Mantler – who practices biodynamic viticulture – harvested most of this crop in late September and early October.Importer:Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selections Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel (510) 549 2444

From a recently acquired parcel, the 2006 Gruner Veltliner Mosburgerin is refined, juicy and delicate, explaining why Mantler calls this his -Veltlinerin- or feminine Veltliner. Floral and sweet pea aromatics, melony fruit whose ripeness suggests honeyed sweetness, and hints of coffee and white pepper inform this luscious and elegant wine.Importer: A Bill Mayer Selection, The Age of Riesling, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 549-2444.