Mario Marengo Vecchia Vigna delle Brunate Morra Barolo DOCG, Piedmont, Italy

馬里奧酒莊韋基亞布魯納莫拉巴羅洛紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：2881

The 2008 Barolo Vecchia Vigna delle Brunate shows quite a bit more depth and richness than the straight Barolo Brunate, but I don’t see a huge qualitative difference between the two wines. If anything, the tannins are less precise in this old-vines bottling and the oak is more dominant. This is an immediate, rich, powerful style but some vineyard character is lost in translation. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. This is another outstanding set of wines from Marco Marengo. Most people will flock to the Brunate because of the vineyard’s reputation, and the Vecchia Vigna delle Brunate, Marengo’s old-vine Brunate bottling, because it is highly allocated. Let them. The smart money is on the Bricco Viole, which is without question one of the most elegant and complete wines of the year. Fans of Marengo’s Brunate bottlings will be happy to know that beginning with 2012 production will go up slightly as Marengo is no longer supplying Elio Altare with some of his fruit. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887

The 2007 Barolo Vecchie Vigne delle Brunate is quite a bit richer and darker than the straight Brunate, but lacks that wine’s sheer appeal. This may be a case where too much of a good thing is, well, too much of a good thing. The finish is rather clipped, and the wine never seems to really come together. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. Marco Marengo’s 2007s were bombastic when I tasted them from barrel in late 2009, but not all the wines seem to have developed positively since then. The Brunate and Vecchie Vigne delle Brunate were mute and closed both times I tasted them from bottle. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; tel. (415) 492-9411; Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; tel. (630) 422-1119

The 2006 Barolo Vecchia Vigna delle Brunate takes things to another level entirely with an intricate fabric of dark fruit, plums, prunes, roasted coffee beans, menthol and minerals that comes to life on a firm, sturdy frame. The wine reveals superb intensity, inner perfume and a long, exceptionally refined finish. The Brunate Vecchia Vigna delle Brunate is Marengo’s most extroverted Barolo and in 2006 it is nothing short of superb. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031. Marco Marengo is one of Piedmont’s emerging superstar producers. Although the Marengo family has made wine here since 1899, it’s as if someone turned on a switch a few years ago, when the wines – the Barolos in particular – went from excellent to outstanding, a level they have maintained ever since. Marengo’s 2007s are every bit as promising as these 2006s, if not a touch deeper. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119