Niepoort Redoma Reserva Branco, Douro, Portugal

尼伯特雷多瑪珍藏白葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：13928

They use the older vineyards for the 2022 Redoma Reserva Branco, which also aged in slightly younger barrels (some 30% new). The whole clusters were pressed, and the juice fermented and matured with the lees in those barrels for some nine months. This is rich and expressive with a nuanced nose with spices and smoke, aromatic herbs, dry flowers and a Burgundian twist. The palate is very balanced and even shows some austerity, and it's chalky in the finish, very tasty and lively, the freshest of the 2022s. 31,200 bottles were filled in July 2023. Douro whites need bottle; this is approachable now but should age.

The 2019 Redoma Reserva Branco is a field blend from old vines featuring Rabigato, Códega, Viosinho, Arinto and others, all aged for nine months in 60% new French oak. It comes in very dry and at just 12.0% alcohol. This has more new wood and a longer time in wood than the regular Redoma Branco, but that doesn't make it any better. For some, it may be a demerit. The style issue here is far more important than any qualitative issue. The new wood does impart a touch of vanilla here, but the extra wood also gives this velvety texture. There's a longer finish as well. At the moment, I like the regular Redoma as much, maybe more. It is true that extended cellaring may change that answer, and this may do better in the cellar. It still has to prove that, and are you willing to wait several years? In that case, somewhere around 2030, you may well be rewarded handsomely. Meanwhile, this is nearly twice the price.

The 2018 Redoma Reserva Branco is a field blend from old vines featuring Rabigato, Códega, Viosinho, Arinto and others, all aged for nine months in 60% new French oak. It comes in very dry and at just 12% alcohol (not surprisingly, less than the 2017). This was set for bottling in a week or so, but it was the final blend and out of cask. If anything, this seems lighter than the regular Redoma Branco. Niepoort says that the regular Redoma always seems bigger, especially when both are young. This is equally fresh and has the oak beautifully under control, despite somewhat more aggressive oak treatment here. If this has an advantage, it might be longer on the finish. Maybe. In any event, they seem about equally good just now, if somewhat differently styled. The style differences will matter more than any perceived quality difference to most people, this having more finesse and a bit more wood. This, too, will age well, probably somewhat better. I won't be surprised if both exceed my estimates, assuming good storage and provenance.

The 2017 Redoma Reserva Branco is a field blend from old vines featuring Rabigato, Códega, Viosinho, Arinto and others, aged for nine months in 20% new French oak. It comes in at 13% alcohol. This was bottled about two months before the tasting (and unfortunately was not tasted next to the regular Branco). Gloriously fresh for this big and fat year, this adds a sumptuous feel and a long and juicy finish. The wood is a little prominent now, but it receded even as I held this in the glass. It is always elegant. When tried again the next day, it was pretty stunning, but this young pup has some things to prove in the cellar. It certainly looks like a star in the vintage. It should age very well and develop along the way. I won't be surprised if we look up in 2025, and it's much more interesting than it is today (and perhaps entitled to an uptick in score).

The 2015 Redoma Reserva Branco is a field blend from old vines that were aged for nine months in 30% new French oak (the remaining barrels of varying ages). It comes in at 12.5% alcohol. This adds a couple of layers of depth to the regular Redoma Branco, more power and, of course, more oak. However, this will have a long aging curve and it should easily pull it in. In fact, it is becoming well integrated even now. Underneath, you get fine acidity and it drinks beautifully, but it will acquire more complexity and harmony in a few years. This, unlike the regular Redoma, really needs food. Don't treat it as a porch-sipper and don't drink it too cold.