Chuck Ortman is one of the few to source grapes from this esteemed vineyard. The ’04 is a giant step ahead of the ’03, suggesting an increasing mastery of the grapes. This inky dark wine is hugely ripe, with red and black fruit-filled pastry flavors, yet dry, silky and balanced. Should develop additional complexities by 2008. ——S.H.(12/15/2006)—— 90