Deceptively light in color, this wine nevertheless packs a wallop, with a hefty 14.5% alcohol. The delicate—almost Burgundian—cherries start off buried by oak and alcohol, but after some airing the flavors come together in a pleasant melange of Bing cherries, maple syrup and caramel, accented on the finish by a touch of black pepper. Best Buy. ——J.C.(9/1/2001)—— 86