Patrick Lesec Vieilles Vignes, Costieres de Nimes, France

帕特里克·萊塞克酒莊老藤紅葡萄酒

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Made from an interesting blend of 40% Mourvedre, 40% Syrah and 20% Grenache, the 2009 Costieres de Nimes Vieilles Vignes reminds me of a hypothetical blend of Bandol and a California Petite Sirah. It is a savage, austere wine with big flavors as well as lots of animal characteristics and rustic tannins. While it’s not for everybody, there is a lot going on in this cuvee. I think it will be far more interesting to evaluate once it is in bottle. (Not yet released)Well-known negociant Patrick Lesec, whose collection of high quality southern Rhone wines has always been somewhat under consumers’ radar, seems to be cutting back on the number of offerings he produces. His finest vintages to date have been 2007, 2005 and some early years such as 2000 and 2001. His 2009s are all very good efforts, but perhaps less impressive than the previously mentioned vintages. Nevertheless, there are some top bargains to be had in Lesec’s portfolio. Lesec used to offer a half dozen or so Chateauneuf du Papes, but he has cut this down to just three cuvees in 2009.Importer: Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA; tel. (508) 545-1532, who distributes to wholesalers in 20 different states. Readers are advised to call them for availability in their region.

A sleeper of the vintage, the outstanding 2007 Costieres de Nimes Vieilles Vignes (60% Syrah and 40% Mourvedre) sells for a song. Inky/purple-hued with full body and plenty of licorice, camphor, blackberry, cassis, and spring flower characteristics, this fleshy, generous beauty should drink well for 3-4 years. The stars in Patrick Lesec’s porfolio are the superb Chateauneuf du Pape cuvees he fashions, but there are also some stunning bargains for shrewd consumers. By the way, Lesec chose not to produce any Chateauneuf du Papes or Gigondas in 2008.Importer: Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA; tel. (508) 545-1532, who distributes to wholesalers in 20 different states. Readers are advised to call them for availability in their region.

Another sleeper selection is Lesec’s 2006 Costieres de Nimes Vieilles Vignes. A blend of 80% Mourvedre and 20% Syrah, it possesses a dark ruby/purple color as well as a lovely, sweet nose of black fruits, forest floor, earth, and flowers. Deep and rich with no hardness or rusticity (a characteristic of Mourvedre), it can be enjoyed over the next decade. I can’t speak highly enough of the job that Patrick Lesec does as a negociant, putting together interesting and high quality blends of Cotes du Rhones and Chateauneuf du Papes.A Patrick Lesec Selection, agent for the US market: Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA; tel. (508) 545-1532

Splendidly opulent, and floral, with blueberry and blackberry notes intermixed with camphor and licorice, the 2005 Costieres de Nimes Vieilles Vignes looks to be a real sleeper of the vintage and a terrific example of Costieres de Nimes that should drink nicely for 7-8 years. Patrick Lesec, the Frenchman who spent an important segment of his life in Santa Barbara, does a stunning job of accessing wines from old vineyards and putting together sensational blends in the southern Rhone. Everything is treated with respect for the regional typicity and character of the grapes. His strengths are the Chateauneuf du Papes, his Cotes du Rhones, as well as Vacqueyras and Gigondas. I haven’t reviewed everything that I’ve tasted, but just about anything with the Patrick Lesec label on it deserves a try as the prices are uncommonly fair for wines of such high quality. What I do find about them, since I purchase them myself, is that since they are made with minimal exposure to oxygen in a very reductive way, they often seem dormant, even dumb, when first released in the bottle. But, since they are bottled unfined and unfiltered, the full character does come forward, although it usually requires 2-4 years of bottle age, especially for the bigger wines from Chateauneuf du Pape. In any event, I consider this an unheralded source for top quality wines from a high-class negociant dedicated to artisinal winemaking.A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA 508 545 1532; Vermont Wine Merchants, Burlington, VT 802 658 6771;Noble House, New York, NY 212 736 0040; William Harrison Imports, Manassas,VA 703 815 9463; The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL 561 998 0029; Fine Vines, Melrose Park, IL 708 343 6702; Silver State, Reno, NV 775 331 3400 and Wine Warehouse, Commerce, CA 323 724 1700