Patrick Lesec Cotes du Rhone Baumes, Rhone, France

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：1599

Another cuvee I enjoyed considerably was the 2005 Cotes du Rhone Les Baumes, which is a soft Grenache-based cuvee exhibiting loads of kirsch liqueur intermixed with tobacco leaf and Provencal herbs. Patrick Lesec, the Frenchman who spent an important segment of his life in Santa Barbara, does a stunning job of accessing wines from old vineyards and putting together sensational blends in the southern Rhone. Everything is treated with respect for the regional typicity and character of the grapes. His strengths are the Chateauneuf du Papes, his Cotes du Rhones, as well as Vacqueyras and Gigondas. I haven’t reviewed everything that I’ve tasted, but just about anything with the Patrick Lesec label on it deserves a try as the prices are uncommonly fair for wines of such high quality. What I do find about them, since I purchase them myself, is that since they are made with minimal exposure to oxygen in a very reductive way, they often seem dormant, even dumb, when first released in the bottle. But, since they are bottled unfined and unfiltered, the full character does come forward, although it usually requires 2-4 years of bottle age, especially for the bigger wines from Chateauneuf du Pape. In any event, I consider this an unheralded source for top quality wines from a high-class negociant dedicated to artisinal winemaking.A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA 508 545 1532; Vermont Wine Merchants, Burlington, VT 802 658 6771;Noble House, New York, NY 212 736 0040; William Harrison Imports, Manassas,VA 703 815 9463; The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL 561 998 0029; Fine Vines, Melrose Park, IL 708 343 6702; Silver State, Reno, NV 775 331 3400 and Wine Warehouse, Commerce, CA 323 724 1700

Somewhat lean, vegetal, and tannic, the 2004 Cotes du Rhone Les Beaumes is not nearly as good as the 2003. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Chemin des Vins, Sherborn, MA 508 545 1532; Vermont Wine Merchants, Burlington, VT 802 658 6771;Noble House, New York, NY 212 736 0040; William Harrison Imports, Manassas,VA 703 815 9463; The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL 561 998 0029; Fine Vines, Melrose Park, IL 708 343 6702; Silver State, Reno, NV 775 331 3400 and Wine Warehouse, Commerce, CA 323 724 1700

The 2003 Cotes du Rhone Les Beaumes is a knock-out. Made from 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah, it tips the scales at a whopping 15.5% alcohol. Offering a lovely kiss of kirsch liqueur along with plenty of fat and glycerin as well as a heady, ripe, chewy finish, this is the poor person’s Chateauneuf du Pape. It should drink well for 3-4 years. A Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 993-0029, Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799, and Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901

From a vineyard adjacent to Chateauneuf du Pape, the 2001 Cotes du Rhone Les Beaumes is a primarily tank-aged offering fashioned from 85% Grenache and 15% Syrah. One hundred percent stems were used in the fermentation, giving the wine more structure as well as a more earthy, peppery, spicy personality. Kirsch liqueur, lavender, and tobacco also make an appearance in this serious red. Drink it over the next 3-5 years. Importer: a Patrick Lesec Selection, various American importers, including Stacole Fine Wines, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998-0039, Classic Wines, Boston, MA; tel. (617) 469-5799; Fine Vines LLC, Maywood, IL; tel. (708) 343-5901; Associated Wine Distributors, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-8048; and Vintage ’59 Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218