Weingut Pfeffingen Ungsteiner Herrenberg Scheurebe Spatlese, Pfalz, Germany

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Eymaels’ 2008 Ungsteiner Herrenberg Scheurebe Spatlese was harvested near the end of October, in different parcels and under an entirely different aspect from its dry counterpart, inter alia with 10% botrytis. Cooling mint and sage, honeydew melon and pineapple soothe both in the nose and on a silken-textured palate, where 53 grams of residual sugar are beautifully incorporated without depriving the finish of vivacity and juicy refreshment. This will remain a delight for at least the next 12-15 years. It threatened to become another 2006, said Jan Eymael of the mid-September, 2008 rain, but even in the warmest parts of the Pfalz the weather stayed relatively cool, and he did not pick the first Rieslings until September 30, then continuing off and on for three weeks. The later it got, the better the grapes became, comments Eymael. Another month on the vine allowed for the November 18 picking of two magnificent nobly sweet Scheureben.Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463

Pink grapefruit, pineapple, and intense sage surge from the glass of Pfeffingen 2007 Ungsteiner Herrenberg Scheurebe Spatlese, which then gushes onto the palate, its strongly resinous pungency balancing its sweetness or vice-versa, and a juicy abundance of fruit seemingly adding honeydew melon to the mix. As in the corresponding Gewurztraminer, there is lightness and lift here, though in this case with more sheer intensity, especially in a finish of exuberant refreshment, as well as truly lip-smacking residues of citrus, salt, and herbal concentrate. Enjoy this over the next 10-12 years. In addition to those distinctive features of Jan Eymael’s 2007 collection mentioned in my individual tasting notes, he points out that as a group they are youthfully a bit reductive and tight, for which reason he presented to me bottles (save for those of the nobly sweet wines) that had first been given two hours in the refrigerator with a couple of inches of their contents removed.Imported by Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA 800 596 9463

Fans of this sometimes kinky grape variety will probably feel this rating is too low. This wine starts of with hints of Scheurebe’s wild side, offering up hints of something resembling Sauvignon Blanc, then adding almost tropical fruit and currant and pink grapefruit flavors tinged with just enough residual sugar for balance. A wild ride, but an enjoyable one.——J.C.(6/1/2009)—— 89

Harvested only three days later than the feinherb rendition, the Pfeffingen 2006 Ungsteiner Herrenberg Scheurebe Spatlese reflects a very different state of ripeness as well as the rapid onset of botrytis. Redolent of mint candy, sage flower, black currant, nectarine, pink grapefruit and banana, its veritable bowl full of fruits on the palate prominently features those classic Scheurebe markers pink grapefruit and cassis. Suggestions of grapefruit rind and berry skin invigorate, while lending counterpoint to the wine’s sweetness. This gaudy, lush and luscious Scheurebe should be capable of entertaining you over the coming 12-15 years. Pfeffingen suffered 40% losses vis a vis normal, even though most of their crop had already been picked when the worst rains arrived on October 3rd. Scheurebe was so resistant to the effects of rain, Jan Eymael reports, that they did not even begin picking it until all of the Riesling was finished, and at that point the fruit was still healthy. But not for long: a week later, says Eymael, Beerenauslese could be picked straight from the vine! To compensate for the high acidity in fruit harvested this early, Eymael gave many of his wines significant skin contact in the press, and he was also happy to the extent that the young wines dropped tartrates. But above all, the high extract inherent in this well-watered vintage serves to buffer acidity. The tart, brisk personality of some of this year’s wines thus comes as something of a shock relative to the vintage norm, but not considering the early harvest at this address.Imported by Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA 800 596 9463.

Oranges, candied kumquats, mangoes, and spices explode from the boisterous nose of the 2001 Scheurebe Spatlese Ungsteiner Herrenberg. Surprisingly, for a wine sporting such an exotic nose, its flavor profile is more classic. Peanuts, sweetened tea, and notes of earth make up this wine's personality. Medium-bodied and silky-textured, it is rich as well as layered. Drink it over the next 6-7 years. Importer: A Rudi Wiest Selection, Cellar International, Inc., Carlsbad, CA; tel. (760) 753-4244