Chateau de Chamboureau Savennieres La Roche aux Moines Chevalier Buhard Cuvee d'Avant, Loire, France

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The 1996 Savennieres-Roche aux Moines Chevalier Buhard Cuvee d'Avant is a spectacular wine revealing a healthy green color with traces of gold and a camomile tea, candied lemon and mineral-infused nose. Its thick, lively, tangy medium-to-full-bodied personality is filled with highly-delineated flavors of lemon drops, rose water and stones. This superbly balanced offering will provide exceptional drinking between 2002-2020. In 1996, due to Soulez' zealous pruning, he dropped his yields to 30 hectoliters/hectare. He feels he may have gone too far with his pruning (on the basis that there is a point where reducing yields no longer increases quality but simply reduces the amount of wine produced) but the extraordinary quality of the wines make me believe it may be worth trying again.Importer: Martine's Wines, San Raphael, CA; tel: (415) 485-1800.

Displaying spice, botrytis and grapefruit zest scents, the 1995 Savennieres-Roche aux Moines Chevalier Buhard Cuvee d'Avant is a more honeyed, botrytised and thicker version of the 1996 but without the extraordinary balance and focus. Outstanding in its own right because of its full-bodied, richly layered and concentrated core of warm, inviting fruit, this wine will not be as ageworthy as the 1996. Projected maturity: 1999-2012.Importer: Martine's Wines, San Raphael, CA; tel: (415) 485-1800.