Quinta Das Bandeiras (Quinta de la Rosa & Poeira) Branco Passagem

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The 2010 Branco “Passagem” is a typical Douro white blend such as Viosinho, Gouveio, Rabigato, Malvasia and Codega do Larinho, aged for 8 months in used oak. I hardly noticed the oak – it is more noticeable on the finish than any flavor alteration, as this seems clean, fresh and pure. This is crisp, yet solid, with an herbaceous overlay, a tinge of a Sauvignon Blanc feel to it. The zing combined with the acidity makes it very tasty and utterly charming. The winery says that it probably should have been bottled as a Reserve. I suspect it will hold better than I think it will, but I’d counsel drinking it now for best results--its crisp freshness is its best feature. Drink-2014. This is the relatively new joint venture between Quinta de La Rosa (the Bergqvist family) and its winemaker Jorge Moreira (also the owner-winemaker of Poeira). The winery says that the wines from Passagem (i.e, “The Crossing”) tend to be fruitier and more aromatic while the wines from La Rosa tend to show more minerality as the Passagems are sourced from the Douro Superior at Quinta das Bandeiras (hence the corporate name). Bandeiras is, says the winery, “near Pocinho right opposite the famous Vale Meao.” The red this year is a Reserva, but note that there is no regular wine. They make but one. Sophia Bergqvist said: “As we don’t produce much from this vineyard, we have followed the policy of either having a Reserve or a non Reserve depending on the year...It all depends on the quality. Also, I don’t want to start making tiny quantities of wines that nobody then can get hold of.”Importers: Tri-Vin Imports, Mt. Vernon, NY; tel. (914) 664-3155; William-Harrison Imports, Manassas, VA; tel. ( 703) 815-9463; Masciarelli Wines, Weymouth, MA