Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Wiltinger Gottesfuss Riesling Kabinett Feinherb, Mosel, Germany

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The Kesselstatt 2008 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Riesling Kabinett feinherb displays a briny, maritime note even in the nose, along with sweet suggestions of honeysuckle. Pithy piquancy of peach kernel and toasted nuts; tart suggestions of lemon and under-ripe peach; and saline minerality combine for a fascinatingly persistent finish, if not one that engenders any compulsion to take the next sip. This could however be worth following and will almost certainly remain fresh for 5-7 years. Annegret Reh’s 2008s display their acids somewhat more prominently than did her 2007s. While for the second year running neither alcoholic heat nor roughness were an impediment to her penchant for dry Grosse Gewachse, this did not mean that the trocken end of the spectrum here was always that ideally-balanced, as there was not only tartness but considerable bitterness to deal with as well. This enormous estate has made great strides, but I think that stylistically they could be more sensitive to the message of their terrific vineyards, at least to the extent that their customer base allows (since the Germans demand of them trocken). In my view, Reh’s move toward more flexibility with and a wider range of residual sugar in the off-dry half of the Kesselstatt portfolio, especially Kabinett, is an excellent step in that direction, but “Grosse Gewachse” of 10-15 grams residual sugar would be an even better one! Incidentally, machine harvesters (first used here, as at many top-notch German estates, in the hectic 2006 vintage) were employed this year in some of the more accessible and less distinguished sites in order to buy time for the entire crop to hang longer, although even so, picking began in mid-October, and concluded November 8.Various importers including: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424

Exotically musky, floral, and peachy aromas mark the 2006 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Riesling Kabinett feinherb. With a good sense of richness and stuffing, roasted pumpkin, toasted nuts, and striking saline and wet stone mineral suggestions, this finishes essentially free of sweetness, with hints of honey and citrus zest as well as the aforementioned minerality. There is some real intrigue here and the finish is satisfyingly long, if a bit short on sheer refreshment. This serious so-called -Kabinett- will be worth following and probably quite versatile at table for at least 3-5 years. -We organized early,- says Annegret Reh-Gartner, -and then harvested in two weeks what we usually harvest in four.- She felt her hand was forced on the Saar when many of their vineyards were hailed on September 30, but by the time the crew was mobilized the heavy rain of October 3 was upon them.Various importers including: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424

The 2004 Wiltinger Gottesfuss Riesling Kabinett feinherb comes from yet another site in that famous town which history – but (as yet) not officially the V.D. P. – recognizes as one. If you don’t believe in Grand Cru Gottesfuss on the evidence of history or the extraordinary results achieved in recent vintages with ancient vines at the Van Volxem estate (and reviewed elsewhere in this report), evidence is right under your nose at Kesselstatt. This should – based on the ex-cellar price – prove to be a sensational value if you can get your hands on some of the 4,000 bottles. Scents of apricot and apricot kernel, toasted nuts, and salty minerality immediately catch your attention. Then you receive a mouthful of creamy, refined, deftly balanced, and elegantly transparent Riesling through which is delivered a subtly shifting diversity of mineral, herbal, and pit fruit messages, all of which point in the direction of first class winemaking and “first growth” dirt. Importer: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424.