Domaine & Maison Remi Jobard Les Chevaliers, Meursault, France

羅拜酒莊騎士園（默爾索村）白葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：1351

The 2018 Meursault Les Chevalières is also quite aromatically expressive this year, bursting with notes of peach, white flowers, ripe pears, orange oil and almond paste. Enveloping but incisive, it's medium to full-bodied, remaining chiseled and mineral despite its charming profile this year.

The 2017 Meursault Les Chevalières is also showing superbly, delivering an inviting bouquet of citrus oil, fresh pear, blanched almonds and crushed chalk. Medium to full-bodied, tensile and incisive, it's tightly wound and intensely mineral, concluding with a pungently saline finish. Planted in 1940, this is the domaine's oldest parcel, located above the holdings of Coche-Dury and Henri Germain and adjacent to those of the Boisson family.

The 2013 Meursault Chevaliere, from the domaine’s oldest vines planted in 1940, has a beautiful, succinct bouquet with white peach and honeysuckle scents, plus a beguiling mineral note. The palate is very composed with well-judged acidity and more tension than the Narvaux. This glides across the mouth with a saline note rounding off the finish and begging another sip. One of my picks from Jobard this year...not to be under-estimated!

The 2012 Meursault Les Chevaliers has a very vibrant, shimmering bouquet with citrus peel, orange blossom, hints of tropical fruit and minerals. The palate is well balanced with finely judged acidity, excellent tension and a cheeky, oyster shell finish. This surpasses everything you could ask from Meursault village cru. Naturally, I spent ten minutes parked outside Domaine Francois Jobard listening to Warpaint’s aptly entitled debut album “The Fool,” before it dawned upon me that I should have been at his brother Charles’s house ten minutes ago. Cue quick dash across Meursault village. Charles Jobard was waiting for outside the winery, probably aware that I would have gone to the wrong address. Charles actually retired a few years ago, but since his son Remi was not on hand, he temporarily came out of retirement to guide me through what were some really quite sublime expressions of Meursault without necessarily resorting to premier crus. The domaine was created in the 1960s when Pierre Jobard divided his holdings between his two sons, Francois and Charles. In 1991 Charles was joined by his son, who then took charge five years later. The domaine has avoided use of herbicides and chemicals since 1994 and adopted the policy of tightly cordon pruning their vines in order to obviate excessive green pruning later in the season. The wines had been raised in new and used oak (20% new plus one to four-year old) and also 1,200-litre foudres before spending six months in stainless steel vats for bottling in February 2014. I tasted through their entire range of wines, though readers should note that there henceforth there is no Meursault Charmes since the vines were pulled up in 2012. I was really taken by these wines – rather a revelation to this writer since I have only come across them sporadically courtesy of their UK importer. To anoint them with the highest praise, I was reminded of the first time I encountered Jean-Marc Roulot’s exceptional wines, full of aromatic nuance and heavenly poise on the palate. If like me, you are still waiting to become au fait with Remi Jobard, then my advice is the sooner the better. Importer: Peter Weygandt and also Lea & Sandeman (UK)

One of the most complete, beautiful wines in this lineup, the 2010 Meursault Les Chevalieres possesses the rich fruit that is typical of the Jobard whites in 2010, yet is also has considerable minerality. There is a level of nuance and sheer delineation in the Chevalieres that is simply striking. Bright floral notes leave a lasting impression on the impeccably balanced, long finish. This is Jobard’s oldest parcel. The vines were planted in 1940. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Remi Jobard describes the 2010s as having the richness of the 2009s and the elegance of the 2008s. I suppose that’s as good a description as any. Jobard began bringing in his 2010s on September 21. Yields are down a whopping 40-50%, but in exchange Jobard has a superb set of wines that are rich yet not at all heavy. It is a vintage in which the personality of each of these sites comes through in spades. As I mentioned last year, Jobard is among the small but growing number of white Burgundy producers experimenting with foudres, which seems to work especially well with his wines. The Narvaux, Genevrieres, Poruzots are partly aged in foudre, while the Charmes is done entirely in foudre. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800