Remirez de Ganuza Erre Punto Tinto, Rioja DOCa, Spain

甘露莎酒莊艾爾普托白葡萄酒

點擊次數(shù)：4086

The white 2013 Erre Punto Blanco is a blend of Viura with 30% Malvasía Riojana with a delicious nose of white flowers and fennel that is quite subtle, even shy. The palate has high acidity, it's almost astringent, though has clean, focused flavors like they are laser-cut. This is really impressive for a vintage like 2013. Accessible with food, but I'd wait one more year. 9,500 bottles produced.

But let’s start with the noteworthy 2011 Erre Punto Blanco, produced from Viura (70%) and Malvasia Riojana grapes from over 50-year-old vineyards planted on argilo-calcareous soils fermented and aged for eight months in new French oak barrels. It’s quite pale-colored, very aromatic with a leesy, creamy nose and an explosion of star anise, fennel and aniseed intermixed with notes of white flowers and a smoky hint. The palate shows great balance and good integration of the oak, with clean, pure flavors that linger in your mouth and a remarkable finish. A very good young, modern white Rioja already developing some complexity and classical personality that should increase with time in bottle. 12,000 bottles produced. Drink 2014-2018. Fernando Remirez de Ganuza, who never stops inventing things (a sorting table that washes the grapes, four wheels to rotate one barrel and stir the lees), only had three new wines to show this year. But I also had a mini-vertical of the as yet unreleased white Reserva (but two vintages have already been reviewed here!) which has a much more classical profile than any of his other wines. I’m looking forward to the wines coming onto the market and following their evolution, as I think the 2010 is great and should develop beautifully. The first vintage to be released will be 2008, but only 1,800 bottles exist. I had an interesting conversation with Ganuza and he reminded me of one thing I always say about Burgundy: the most important thing is the producer. When I say that, most people look at me and say: “How can you say that? Burgundy is the essence of terroir, the place on earth where the concept has been most studied, best understood and defined!” It is indeed, and I completely agree, but the vineyard, the Grand Cru has the potential to produce world class wines, but it’s up to the producer to realize that potential – or kill it! That’s why, yes, the vineyards, the terroir are extremely important, but human intervention is key. This is all because one of Fernando’s points was that people say “Wine is produced in the vineyard,” and that’s not really true. The vineyard gives you the raw material, the potential, but someone at the winery has to realize that potential and there, every small detail counts and makes a difference. Anyway, going back to Remirez de Ganuza, the two reds that I tasted were superb. Imported by Fine States from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

The 2010 Erre Punto Blanco is a blend of 70% Viura and 30% Malvasia between 40 and 60-years old. The pure must is barrel-fermented and raised in seven-months in French oak. It has a fragrant nose of green apple and pressed flowers that is initially muted but unfurls nicely in the glass, offering subtle wax resin notes. The palate is better than the aromatics. It is underpinned by crisp acidity and mouth-filling sour lemon and lime zest flavors with convincing weight on the finish. Drink now-2020. Fernando Remirez de Ganuza needs no introduction. In some ways, he reminds me of Gerard Perse of Chateau Pavie in terms of his determination, unwillingness to compromise and singular vision. Looks-wise, they could be brothers. Fernando has already won acclaim for his wines that are created in his state-of-the-art facility in the village of Samaniego. The picturesque medieval buildings that surround a small manicured garden and a natural spring belie a winery where no expense is spared. Fernando has an almost obsessive intolerance towards cleanliness and hygiene. All that was missing was a doormat to clean your shoes as you enter the vat-room. He famously uses just the “shoulder” part of grape bunches for his top wines, since he believes they have more intensity than the bottom. These wines are crafted in a modern fashion and you can taste the effort that has gone into them. Yet at the same time, there is part of me that would like Fernando to take risks and be wary of not over-analyzing the wines, which can detract from their personality and risk making them over-polished and generic. Perfectionism is an admirable virtue to aspire to, but imperfections can make something more interesting to experience. The Vina Coqueta comes from 41-year-old vines is 5.5-hectare namesake vineyard, a blend of 90% Tempranillo, 8% Graciano and 2% Garnacha that is blended with the skins of the white grapes, then raised for two years in barrel (90% French and 10% American). The Reserva is a blend of 85% Tempranillo, 5% the skins of Viura and Malvasia that are added during fermentation and 10% of Graciano, no younger than 40-years in age. It is raised in 95% French and 5% American oak for approximately 25 months. The Trasnocho is made from the same fruit as the Reserva, but is pressed gently through a water-filled bag inserted into the vat and left to inflate overnight. It is then raised entirely in French new oak. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

The 2009 Erre Punto contains 70% old-vine Viura and 30% old-vine Malvasia. It is slightly more expressive with a bit more depth, concentration, and complexity. Bodegas Fernando Remirez de Genuza ranks among the top half-dozen producers in Rioja. Fernando Remirez de Ganuza has been able to accomplish this by melding the best aspects of traditional and contemporary Rioja styles into his own unique expression. White wine is a new addition to the portfolio. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; Tel. (781) 461-5767

The 2008 Erre Punto is 100% old-vine Viura from a vineyard planted in 1950. It was barrel-fermented and aged for 6 months in French oak. An alluring bouquet of melon, mineral, and floral notes jump from the glass of this impeccably balanced, lengthy offering. It is likely to evolve for at least 4-5 years and drink well through 2018 if not longer. Employ it as you would a top-level Burgundy. Bodegas Fernando Remirez de Genuza ranks among the top half-dozen producers in Rioja. Fernando Remirez de Ganuza has been able to accomplish this by melding the best aspects of traditional and contemporary Rioja styles into his own unique expression. White wine is a new addition to the portfolio. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; Tel. (781) 461-5767