Remoissenet Pere & Fils les Genevrieres, Meursault, France

雷穆父子杰納維爾園干白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：1686

The 2009 Meursault Genevrieres is all about crushed rocks, minerality and saline notes that are woven into the fabric from start to finish. It is a striking wine endowed with considerable finesse and a crystalline purity that is admirable, especially in this vintage. It is one of the few w2009s in this lineup that needs bottle age. As one might expect, this is a more understated, subtle style than the Charmes. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. This is a thrilling set of whites from Remoissenet. I have to say, I expected a little more when I tasted the 2009 reds from bottle earlier this year given the significant investments that have taken place here over the last few years. To be fair, though, I liked the 2008 reds I tasted better. But it is with these 2009 whites that the Remoissenet truly shows its potential. This is a fabulous lineup, notable for both its consistency throughout the range as well as for a number of ridiculously priced bargains. It seems pretty clear that winemaker Claudine Jobard has a special touch when it comes to whites. Readers should do whatever they can to check out the marvelous wines. Remoissenet began picking on September 20, very late by the standards of 2009. The wines are rich, ripe and sensual but not at all overdone. A number of the wines were aged partially or entirely in 350 liter barrels, which helped maintain an element of freshness. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to taste the 2010s as they were still in malo, but I did taste a handful of 2008s. Stylistically the Remoissenet wines (both white and red) tend towards the richer end of the spectrum.Importers: Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476, Bertin Henri Selections, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 392 6995, Cavatappi Distribuzione, Seattle, WA; tel. (206) 292 5226, Dark Star Imports, New York, NY; tel. (646) 312 8921, Arborway Imports, Lexington, MA; tel. (781) 862-0515, United Wine and Spirits, Houston, TX; tel. (713) 696-9463, D.G.L. Distributors, Northbrook, IL; tel. (847) 291- 1110, The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1460

I'm now convinced that Genevrieres is a better vineyard than Perrieres, says Rovani in offering a taste of the Remoissenet 2007 Meursault Genevrieres. Whether or not he intends it as evidence, this wine certainly does lend support to my hypothesis that its site was especially favored in the present vintage. Marzipan, toasted hazelnut, and honey in the nose lead to a palate of creamy texture, peachy richness, and with rich, low-toned nut and malt notes. The bit of toast and spice from barrel fits the personality of the wine, and suggestions of fruit pit bitterness offset the impression of sweetness of fruit. While this is unusually full and soft as well as almost roasted in character for a 2007, an element of vintage-typical lift and refreshment supports its persistent, succulent finish. I envision this as best enjoyed within the next 4-5 years, but there is no way of telling, and the new Remoissenet simply as to establish a track record over time. The well-known if not always entirely venerable house of Remoissenet began a new life in 2005 when it was purchased by investors and wine lovers Edward and Howard Milstein of New York; merchant Todd Halpern of Toronto; and (with a minority share) Louis Jadot. The new owners installed Jadot veteran Bernard Repot as manager and Claudie Jobard as winemaker to oversee less a renovation of the facilities than the establishment from scratch of a new winery. With one major exception (Le Montrachet) the revived Remoissenet has depended on establishing new sources of supply, a project that – along with marketing – is being spearheaded by long-time Wine Advocate associate Pierre-Antoine Rovani. The emphasis will be on contract fruit or must – although Remoissenet still owns acreage of Pinot Noir vines in and around Beaune – and then very selectively. Remoissenet's substantial share of Montrachet alone offers them a unique opportunity not only to bargain with growers, but to establish a high market profile, and the quality of 2007s here – following on the heels of an impressively rich if occasionally overly woody and ponderous collection of 2006s – confirms this as a negociant to be reckoned with. The barrels used here, incidentally, are now split between 350 liter capacity and standard 225 liter barriques.Importers include The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1460, Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476, Bertin Henri Selections, Doral, FL; tel. (305) 392-6995.