Schloss Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner Beerenauslese, Kamptal, Austria

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The Gobelsburg 2007 Gruner Veltliner Beerenauslese (also raised in tank) displays a pungent, radish-like nip in the nose, along with peach preserves, grilled pineapple, and a hint of caramel. Rich and luscious, this takes its bite and finishing intensity from its overt botrytis, and lacks the charm, polish, or uncanny balance exhibited by the two Auslese bottlings. That said, it certainly exhibits formidable concentration, with enough acidity and extract to support its high residual sugar and to guarantee at least a decade of bottle development, during which it might well become more interesting. Michael Moosbrugger did not begin his main white wine harvest – even for lighter-weight Gruner Veltliner – until mid-October. Unlike most Krems area growers he also picked nobly sweet wine, based on a late bloom of botrytis. Moosbrugger seems to have achieved some (considering the weather) surprisingly successful reds in 2007, having painstakingly cut off half of each cluster to inhibit the development of rot, then harvested prior to any of his whites. (I’ll report on those reds after I have re-tasted them from bottle. For notes on two outstanding 2006 vintage reds which have since lived up to their promise in bottle, consult my report in issue 177.)Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300