The Stadt Krems 2007 Gruner Veltliner Wachtberg Reserve (the designation “reserve” having been added on in consequence of so-called DAC legislation – see my general introduction for details) smells alluringly of Bosc pear, lemon oil, orange blossom, and peony. Without quite the lift or elegance of the Weinzierlberg, it displays a lush, relatively full-bodied palate impression accented by tart rhubarb, and grips tenaciously with smoky, tobacco and citrus oil pungency. It should keep well for at least 3-4 years. There are 34,000 bottles of this, from 7 hectares, just to give you the idea that Stadt Krems is by no means a small estate, making its high quality good news indeed. Fritz Miesbauer and the winery of the city of Krems are going from strength to strength. Miesbauer had already recovered from a couple of hair-graying nights when I saw him for the second time last year in late June.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700