Stadt Krems Sandgrube Gruner Veltliner, Kremstal, Austria

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If there is any fault to find for the price with Weingut Stadt Krems’ 2006 Gruner Veltliner Sandgrube it is that the wine is simply too concentrated for “intro level”! Green bean, lentil, lemon, and brine in the nose lead to a saline, bright, pungent palate and a strikingly sappy, faintly bitter cling. Although pushing 13% alcohol, we still get some sense of lightness and refreshment that one expects from this consistently outstanding value. While I was visiting at the end of June, incidentally, savage hail shredded the better part of the Sandgrube. But within 36 hours, poor Miesbauer’s demeanor had greatly improved, as growers were offering to sell him fruit to alleviate the inevitable shortage that this estate will have experienced in 2007. Fritz Miesbauer waited patiently and harvested well into November to achieve ripeness. The results were mixed, but the successes more than uphold this estate’s growing reputation for good value. Miesbauer is now also responsible for the wines of the Gottweig monastery whose vinification and packaging have undergone a major overhaul. The early results are promising, if not yet comparable to those at Stadt KremsImporter: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700 These wines are also imported by Vin Divino

The 2005 Gruner Veltliner Sandgrube offers aromas and flavors of melon and nut oil with herbal accents, once again reminiscent of Sauvignon Blanc. Lush, yet light on the palate, it finishes with juicy melon, fruit pits, and herbs. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The 2004 Gruner Veltliner Sandgrube is the estate’s high-volume visitors’ card wine, and delivers aromas and juicy flavors of citrus, melon, herb and nuts in a manner reminiscent of genuinely ripe Loire Sauvignon Blanc. The finish pours on fruit and refreshment. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

If you wish you could afford to drink more Gruner Veltliner, load up on this gem, which features varietally correct aromas of white pepper and celery leaf layered over ripe stone fruit. It’s full-bodied and seems soft at first, but then adds acidity and mineral notes on the finish that provide a firm backbone. Crisp and refreshing on the finish; perfect for summertime.——J.C.(8/1/2006)—— 89