Steele Shooting Star Cote de Columbia

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Most readers who know my tastes would expect me to be well-disposed toward a kirsch-dominated, peppery Grenache. This medium ruby-colored wine does not reveal any evidence of oak aging. Loaded with jammy cherry fruit, it is velvety textured, round, and hedonistic with some spice in the background that suggests exposure to oak. Drink this round, enjoyable Grenache over the next 1-2 years. If readers want to do something fascinating, slip a bottle of this wine into a premier cru or grand cru red Burgundy tasting and see what happens.Winemaker Jed Steele's second label called Shooting Star offers much needed relief for consumers trying to find a good California wines at a reasonable price.Tel. (707) 279-9475

Jed Steele is unquestionably one of California's most accomplished winemakers, and there is no doubting his Midas touch with wines. The lighter-styled, ruby-colored 1995 Cote de Columbia Grenache reveals luscious cherry and raspberry (possibly strawberry) fruit that is unabashedly presented in a gushing, uncomplicated style. Fine underlying acidity gives vibrancy to this delicious, tasty wine. Drink it over the next 6-12 months. Tel. (707) 279-9475

Far more interesting, as well as a terrific bargain, is the offering from Steele's second label, Shooting Star. The 1994 Cote de Columbia outshines all three Pinots with its exuberant, vibrant, peppery, sweet cherry and berry fruit. Medium to full-bodied, with a natural texture and none of the Pinots' tartness, and a fleshy, clean finish, it should be drunk slightly chilled over the next year. Pinot Noir may have more stature and prestige than Grenache, but the latter grape delivers the goodies. Tel. (707) 279-0213