Weingut Toni Jost Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Beerenauslese, Mittelrhein, Germany

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：2499

Jost 2010 年的 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Beerenauslese 散發(fā)著煙熏和輕微的濕石頭礦物質(zhì)氣息，口感粘而誘人。伴有突出的蘋(píng)果核和核桃仁氣息以及給人原始粗糙印象的煙熏味和青苦味。

The 2007 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Beerenauslese (in keeping with Jost’s approach to its nobly sweet siblings, having relatively high 9.5% alcohol) features marzipan, yellow plum preserves, pineapple, white raisin, and a hoisin and salt water-taffy like amalgam of briny minerality and caramelization. The feel is surprisingly firm; the sense of underlying density formidable; yet there is buoyancy here, too. A slightly spirit-like volatility accompanies the wine’s concentration and penetration of pit fruits and citrus oils through a finish that incorporates an invigorating sense of fruit skin chew and zest. This subtly complex elixir is another safe candidate for three decades’ aging. The 2007 vintage was immensely satisfying for the Josts, combining as it did high must weights (but less so than in most recent vintages); ripe acid-retention; ample precipitation (for a flagship site so notoriously dry that it is among the very few in Germany to have been approved decades ago for drip lines); perfect botrytis; and a bumper crop (after several straight years of penury). All of that noted, I was still marginally disappointed by this year’s dry wines. I cannot help but wonder whether the Hahn simply promotes too much sugar in its Riesling grapes for ideal balance at legal Trockenheit. Peter Jost continues to follow a distinctive approach to nobly sweet success – honed only over the past several years – of rigorously removing and discarding in September any botrytis that might not later at harvest be distinguishable from fresh botrytis, and of favoring lower residual sugar and correspondingly higher alcohol in the finished wines than is nowadays fashionable.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The Josts were able to pick their 2006 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Beerenauslese practically as a block. A highly honeyed, smoky, spicy, nippy nose signals the dominant role of botrytis, and while opulent, ester-rich, and rich, this lacks the seamlessness or refinement of its Auslese counterparts. Butterscotch, honey, and peach preserves inform this wine’s long (and, despite a – for its genre – relatively high 9.5% alcohol) quite sweet finish, with a softness and brown spice component reminiscent of Gewurztraminer. A decade or more might bring further interest although I suspect the two Auslesen will remain more attractive. The normally dry and always steep and well-ventilated Hahn certainly enjoyed advantages in a rain-plagued vintage like 2006.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300