Varner Chardonnay Neely Spring Ridge Vineyard

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The compelling 2004 Chardonnay Neely Spring Ridge Vineyard is a selection of the finest lots. There are only about 130 cases of this knock-out Chardonnay. Its light green/gold color is accompanied by superb aromas of honeysuckle, orange marmalade, poached pears, and hazelnuts. With great richness, purity, intensity, and length, it should drink well for 4-5 years.Previously recommended: 2003 Chardonnay Amphitheater Block (90), 2003 Chardonnay B Block (94), 2003 Chardonnay Home Vineyard (92), 2003 Chardonnay Neeley (90), 2003 Pinot Noir Hidden Blocks (90).Tel. (650) 321-4894; Fax (650) 321-4893

Low-keyed and scaled back in size is the 2003 Chardonnay Neely, a selection of the winery’s three finest barrels (78 cases produced). Perhaps because it is tighter, has seen more oak, and is more structured, it did not perform as well as the other cuvees the day I tasted it. There is certainly plenty here, but it is built from the back forward, and the structure dominates at present. Given how the other cuvees have performed, I assume it will ultimately be as good. It should last for 5-7 years. Tel. (650) 321-4894; Fax (650) 321-4893

Interestingly, the 2002 Chardonnay Neely possesses higher acidity, more structure as well as minerality than the Bee block, and a backward, restrained personality. The wine exploded on the back of the palate, so I suspect there is plenty of upside. Give it another 6-12 months of bottle age, and drink it over the following 1-3 years. Tel. (650) 321-4894; Fax (650) 321-4893