Another compelling effort is the gorgeously fruity 2011 Chardonnay Bee Block (488 cases). It offers lots of honeysuckle, creme brulee, pineapple, mango, peach and wet gravel-like notes, a structured minerality, and sensational, full-bodied richness. It should drink well for 10+ years.
These organically, dry-farmed vineyards located ten miles from the Pacific Ocean in the Santa Cruz Mountains are managed by two brothers. I was super-impressed by their attitude as well as their statement that “90% of what we do to contribute to our quality is work in the vineyard.” All of these wines are minimally processed with indigenous yeast fermentations, hand racking, and are produced in relatively small quantities, ranging from 95 cases of the Pinot Noir Three Blocks, to nearly 500 cases of the Chardonnay B Block. I can not recommend these fairly priced reds and whites highly enough. The Amphitheater Block is a two-acre, south-facing vineyard planted on its own roots thirty years ago. The Home Block is a two-acre, east-facing site planted on its own roots thirty-one years ago. The Bee Block, 3.5 acres on a northeast-facing slope, is grafted. All of the vineyards are planted in sedimentary, fragmented, rocky soils, and the brothers believe the Chardonnay, at least from the Amphitheater Block, is an Old Wente clone. They are not certain what clone was used in the two other blocks. I tasted three Chardonnays under the Varner label and one packaged under the Neely label, all 2011s, the coolest vintage on record with no heat spikes during the summer as well as a wet fall. There was no botrytis in these vineyards because of their high elevation. The Pinot Noirs are made from the Hidden Block, a northeast-facing slope planted with Dijon clone 115, the Picnic Block, a 2-acre east-facing slope planted with Dijon clone 777, and the Upper Picnic Block, a 2-acre block of 32-year-old vines planted with Dijon clone 777. Their prices are fair for what has been put in the bottle.
www.varnerwine.com
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