Verget Le Poruzot, Meursault Premier Cru, France

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Verget's Meursault Poruzots is a work of art. Its drool-inducing nose of candied hazelnuts and lemons leads to a full-flavored and humongous personality densely packed with tropical fruits, and nuts. This wine is amazingly ripe yet has impeccable precision and balance, an anomaly given its oily, almost viscous texture. Many wines, tasted at this stage of their elevage, appear to be holding some of their components in reserve. This offering flaunts everything it has in an unabashedly sexy and voluptuous manner. Projected maturity: 2000-2007.A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910, and a Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42843822), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers (800) 525-9699.

Verget's 1992 premier crus are marvelous wines.The 1992 Meursault-Les Poruzot is spectacular. As with most of Verget's 1992 selections, Guffens encouraged his growers to keep yields to 25-30 hectoliters per hectare, resulting in a Les Poruzot with fabulous richness, density, and length. A smoky, honeyed nose of hazelnuts, flowers, and buttery fruit is followed by a wine with great richness, full body, fabulous freshness and liveliness, and an authoritative finish. This riveting Meursault must be tasted to be believed.As the notes attest, Guffens is one of France's greatest white winemakers. The quality of his wines in so-so years such as 1991 shames many famous names. In 1992 the overall quality level is extraordinary.These are truly the wines of a genius. I suspect their quality is so high it will shake-up a lot of white burgundy producers who have been resting on their historical reputations for far too long. The wines of Guffens are proof of the great quality that can be achieved without compromise. For that, consumers who care should be thankful. Bravo to Jean-Marie Guffens-Heynen!A Peter Vezan Selection, various importers, including Estate Wines, San Rafael, CA, Ideal Wines & Spirits, Medford, MA, and Barrique Wine Co., Chicago, IL.