Weingart Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling Kabinett

點擊次數(shù)：2086

A 2007 Bopparder Hamm-Ohlenberg Riesling Kabinett represents bottling undertaken at the behest of Weingart’s importer, using material that would otherwise have informed a Spatlese. Tangerine, quince, green tea, and lily-of-the-valley seduce the nose, and luscious Persian melon and pear nectar join in on the palate. This excellent value certainly exhibits all the refreshment and buoyancy one could ask for in the name of “Kabinett,” not to mention transparency to mineral nuance and an exhilarating finish. Florian Weingart’s reputation continues to mount, but he remains always the self-effacing and astute observer of wine, very much including his own. Given the amount of nobly sweet wine produced here in 2006 and the sometimes problematic quality of the botrytis that appeared this year, the estate essayed little in that genre this year, much of which moreover ended up as blending material.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The 2004 Bopparder Hamm-Ohlenberg Riesling Kabinett sports a ripe nose of lime, honey and pink grapefruit. In the mouth this exhibits a honeyed richness, faint oiliness of texture, and pungent spiciness that reveal it’s having been touched by botrytis despite an early picking. Weingart pressed the whole clusters gently so as not to extract bitter botrytis notes. The acidity is so bright and efficacious that the wine really does have a genuine “Kabinett” side to it. Honey and lime, pink grapefruit and spice inform a satisfyingly juicy finish. Florian Weingart brought no Riesling in from the Bopparder Hamm under 90 degrees oechsle – a record at this estate – but the range of phenolic ripeness was much more variable than that statistic would suggest. In years gone by, Adolf Weingart would have attempted to gently de-acidify a vintage with acids like this, but his son sticks by principle and with a single exception did not touch the 2004 acids. Instead, he tried to counter any tendency toward green, aggressive acidity with time on the lees and judicious application of residual sugar. But as he points out, it didn’t help that the 2004s as a rule stubbornly held on to their CO2 after a cold winter, a condition normally viewed as favorable. Introducing some wood into the cellar is an idea for the future.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300