Weingart Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling Spatlese

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Weingart’s 2004 Bopparder Hamm-Ohlenberg Riesling Spatlese combines pear and tropical fruit aromas with yeasty fermentative notes. (It fermented spontaneously, whereas the majority of wines are fermented with cultured yeasts.) On the palate, it’s dense, compact and concentrated, with that lovely alliance of creaminess and brightness that is typical of 2004 at its best. The finish is pungently – almost peppery – in its spiciness, with a tactile sense of pulverized stone, all offset by lip-smacking juiciness. Florian Weingart brought no Riesling in from the Bopparder Hamm under 90 degrees oechsle – a record at this estate – but the range of phenolic ripeness was much more variable than that statistic would suggest. In years gone by, Adolf Weingart would have attempted to gently de-acidify a vintage with acids like this, but his son sticks by principle and with a single exception did not touch the 2004 acids. Instead, he tried to counter any tendency toward green, aggressive acidity with time on the lees and judicious application of residual sugar. But as he points out, it didn’t help that the 2004s as a rule stubbornly held on to their CO2 after a cold winter, a condition normally viewed as favorable. Introducing some wood into the cellar is an idea for the future.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The 1992 Bopparder Hamm Ohlenberg Riesling Spatlese is a fruity, soft, attractive, medium-bodied wine. A Terry Theise Estate Selection, imported by Milton S. Kronheim Co., Washington, DC.