The 2006 Gruner Veltliner Kaferberg practically explodes from the glass with penetrating, high-toned floral and herbal essences, including mint and eucalyptus. This is sure to have medicinal properties, but tasting beyond that, the luscious brown spice and herb-tinged melon fruit, impeccable sense of elegance, and subtle minerality all combine for a wine of depth, purity, length, and potential that is sure to be welcome at the dinner table anytime over the next decade. Harvested in early November, what Brundlmayer called “perfect berries” yielded well over 14% alcohol that you can’t detect. I’ve never tasted a Kaferberg nearly this impressive here, but then, it might be that I simply needed to give the wines more time. In 2006, Willi Brundlmayer really displayed mastery of his sites. While their fruits all ripened to high potential alcohol such as we have become used to in most vintages at this estate, this was by and large without detrimental effects, and the wines display clarity and refinement without heat or bitterness.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300
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